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**NEW** Click here for in-depth articles, originally published in Michigan Gardener.
PLANTING ROSE BUSHES:
These suggestions are for own-root, potted roses in Climate Zones 4 - 6.
1) If soil quality is not known, obtain an MSU soil test kit. They're available at county extension office or our nursery. Learn more about MSU soil test.
2) Roses like lots of sun, good drainage, regular watering, regular feeding and good air circulation. Keep this in mind when selecting a planting location.
3) Dig a hole several inches deeper and wider than the pot. Add bone meal and other amendments as recommended in the soil test results. Work amendments into the soil in the hole.
4) Strip some lower leaves and plant the rose several inches deeper than it was in the pot. Take care to prevent tearing of bark.
5) Form a ring of soil 2"-3" high around the base of the plant to act as a catch basin for water.
6) Thoroughly water newly planted roses. Water daily for first month. If it fails, it's usually due to lack of water during the first month. Michigan does not receive enough natural rainfall for roses to thrive. Addition of mulch will conserve soil moisture. Click here to learn about MSU's mulch study.
7) Fertilize until after first bloom cycle (about a month after planting). Then fertilize every 4 - 6 weeks until mid-August.
8) Heap mulch around the base of plant during its first fall for winter protection.
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Jan: Look for animal damage. You may need to enclose the rose in a chicken wire cage. Check that climbers are secured and not whipping in the wind.
Feb: Enjoy a hot cup of herbal tea, a good rose book and a roaring fire in the fireplace. Study our rose variety listing to plan your spring purchases. Enjoy Armchair Rose Gardening.
Mar: Begin to remove some winter-protection mulch from roses. Strip off and dispose of remaining leaves. Spray canes and soil around roses with dormant oil and lime sulfur to kill overwintering insects and fungal diseases.
Apr: Prune off winter-killed canes when forsythia blooms. In late April, heavily prune varieties that bloom on new growth (minis, floribundas, Buck roses, Morden Parklands) Fertilize roses late in the month. Start planting dormant roses. Click for more details: Spring Rose Care, Pruning Climbing Roses
May: Continue to watch for signs of insect and disease damage. Add new roses or replace those which have not performed well. Pesticides in the Rose Garden, "Natural" Pest Remedies
Jun: Continue regular watering and scouting for insects and diseases. Begin second fertilization. Once-a-year bloomers can be heavily pruned after they've bloomed. Remove spent blooms (deadheading) on repeat blooming roses. Prune back lateral side shoots on mature climbers.
Jul: Continue watering, scouting and deadheading. Now is when Japanese Beetles may appear. Click here to become a JB expert: Japanese Beetles
Aug: If it's hot, increase your watering. Last fertilization needs to be done by mid-August. Stop deadheading in mid-to-late August. Summer Rose Care, August in the Rose Garden
Sep: Plant growth will slow. Continue to water as needed. Plant potted roses -- fall is a good time for root growth. Autumn in the Rose Garden
Oct: Determine which roses will need winter-protection and purchase supplies. Continue to plant potted roses until end of Oct. Click here for more information about "Winter Preparation for Roses"
Nov: Remove debris around base of plants. Secure canes of climbers to prevent winter wind damage. Apply dormant oil and lime sulfur spray to kill insect eggs and disease spores. Apply light covering of mulch to base of plant for insulation and moisture retention. Do not heavily prune your roses in the fall!
Dec: Surf to www.GreatLakesRoses.com and prepare a wish list for Santa! We can mail Felco pruners, books about roses, gloves and Gift Certificates. |
APHIDS:
Small green, black or red insects that suck juices from new leaf growth. Especially prevalent in spring.
Control by washing off with high pressure water spray (daily) for two weeks to break breeding cycle. Do this early in the day, so that the roses can dry quickly.
Lady bugs (lady beetles) normally arrive about two weeks after you notice the aphids. Their larvae devour aphids.
May also be controlled by insecticidal soap (Safer's) or sprays that contain Neem Oil.
JAPANESE BEETLES:
This small, metallic-green and brown scarab beetle overwinters as a grub in the turf. In July, they emerge as beetles and begin to feed. They especially enjoy light colored and fragrant roses, where they can be seen "feeding & breeding" en masse.
Controlled by:
Treating the grub population in the turf.
Use of attractants, such as linden trees or Japanese beetle traps placed at the perimeter of the yard or in your neighbor's yard.
Hand plucking of beetles from the plant and putting in a container of soapy water to drown.
Use of Neem Oil spray every two to three days to repel beetles.
Use of pesticide sprays, such as Sevin, to kill the beetle on contact. Has no residual effect, so you'll need to spray repeatedly. Remember, most insecticides like Sevin are nerve poisons, so read and heed the instructions on the label.
Systemic insecticides don't work because the beetles are large and need to eat a lot of a poisoned plant for control.
Unfortunately, there is no easy way to control these monsters, which are relatively new to Michigan. At the nursery, we hand remove them every day (sometimes twice daily). Scientists at Michigan State University are working on establishing natural predators in our state.
SPIDER MITES:
A small, red, web-spinning spider which attacks the underside of leaves. Appears when plant is in a hot and dry environment. Bottom of leaves appear dirty; shake leaves over white paper to see if "dirt" moves on the paper.
Control by washing off plant with a high pressure water spray. Do this daily, early in the day, for two weeks to break the breeding cyle. Spider mites are resistant to most homeowner insecticides. Light horticultural oils like Neem Oil can smother them. |
BLACKSPOT:
Most common rose disease in Michigan. Fungal disease which causes black spots to appear on the leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off the plant. Condition starts at the bottom of the plant and moves upward.
Three conditions must be present for blackspot to develop:
1) the spores must be present on the leaves
2) leaves must be wet continuously for 7 hours or longer
3) temperatures must be above 68 degrees F.
Controlled by:
Watering practices -- water early in the day so that the leaves dry quickly or use drip irrigation that doesn't get the leaves wet.
Sanitation -- pull spotted leaves off plant and remove debris from the ground, where spores live. Remove all leaves from plants and ground in the fall. Use dormant oil and lime sulfur spray in late fall and in very early spring to kill spores.
Preventive sprays -- Neem Oil sprays can be used on regular basis during growing season to prevent/control disease.
Some rose varieties (especially ones with yellow blooms) are prone to blackspot. If blackspot is persistent, regular spraying of a fungicide such as Daconil (Ortho Garden Disease Control) or Bonide Fungonil may be required.
POWDERY MILDEW:
A fungal disease which appears as white/grey splotches on upper leaf surfaces. Leaves can look like they were "frosted" with powdered sugar. With time, leaf surface damage and wrinkling will occur.
This disease is common in the spring and fall, when nighttime temperatures are in the high 50s and daytime temperatures are in the high 70s. Disease starts on new leaves, at top of plant, and progresses down the plant.
Roses with red blooms, gallicas and Bourbon roses are somewhat prone this disease.
Controlled by:
Planting roses where there's good air circulation & sunlight.
Use of Neem Oil products or potassium bicarbonate sprays (Bonide Remedy).
If a rose is prone to powdery mildew, then more aggressive products, such as Bonide Infuse or Funginex should be used regularly.
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| Want Us to Look at a Problem? | |
We are available for on-site consultation in your garden. Please contact us for details about hourly rate.
If you want to bring us a sample for evaluation, remember that we need to see as much of the plant as possible and it needs to be as fresh as possible. Cut the affected cane and put it in a bucket of water for transport. We cannot help if you bring us a few leaves that you put into a plastic bag the day before your visit. |
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